IMAGES OF SAN CARLOS

Found new website all about San Carlos...and the best part is a photo slideshow here.

IN THE NEWS: SOMETHING TO OFFEND EVERYONE

Today I read a couple of articles in "Expresso," one of the dailies published in Hermosillo. I stumble a bit over the syntax but I get the gist of most articles now. In one, a narcolaboratorio in Caborca, a suburb of Hermosillo was found to be manufacturing chewing gum laced with cocaine, for the youth market. The good news: the policia were dismantling the lab and five men were arrested. But parents in the neighborhood should investigate when they see their kids chomping too enthusiastically on gum.

Cocaine chewing gum may be hard to come by (see above) but you can still order Nihilist Gum over the Internet. Here's the riveting description:

This gum has no flavor. It is as pointless as life itself. As unsatisfying as your empty shell of an existence. Like everything else on this wretched planet, it is a dead end. A black hole. A bottomless pit of missed opportunity and shattered dreams.

If this sounds like your cup of tea, uh, wad of gum, seek professional help immediately.

Does this look like food to you? If so, you are one sick puppy.

A bullrider in Costa Rica attributes his success in mounting bulls to his diet of live chickens, doves, small dogs and cats. He says the hot blood gives him energy and his favorite is gatitos (young kitties) which taste like rabbit. Apparently the SPCA has no influence in Costa Rica, so I hope the Costaricenses take the warning and watch out for their critters.

AND NOW, A PUPPY FIX

Favorite toy of the moment: my toes. Chuy, as usual, hogs the best part.

After a rain, mira! lakefront property.

Chica

TITILLATED BY THE TESLA

I thought I was smitten with the Toyota Prius, but tonight I've been swept off my feet by the Tesla Roadster. The Capt spotted it first, iChatted the URL over to me, and I'm now sitting here dazzled with admiration by the best-looking electric car I've ever seen. And wowed by the fact that this car isn't pie-in-the-sky-ten-years-away from being marketed. People are ordering them now for July, 2008!

Now all I need is a spare $98,950. I suppose I could do without the $300 cellphone integration, the $400 XM Satellite radio (give me Sirius anytime), the $800 7-speaker sound system, thereby saving $1500. And I only need $50k to reserve my Tesla, if I'm in a hurry to get it, or $30,000 if I'm willing to wait a little longer. And think of the money I'll save when driving costs me less than two cents a mile!

In my dreams. Sure, if I were able to buy a $98k car, this would be the one. But even if I'm never able to afford it, I'm glad to know it exists. And it's always good to have something to aspire to. Besides, they aren't available yet in teal.

Hmmm, how many Teslas could be bought with just one hour of military operations in Iraq?

And further down the road, there could be a saltwater car in your future. The headlines read"Fla. Man Invents Machine to Turn Water Into Fire." John Kanzius was researching a method of curing cancer with sound waves and stumbled on a way to burn salt water.

WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN TO BOOKS?

"More than half the adults in this country (the U.S.) won't pick up a novel this year, according to the National Endowment for the Arts. Not one. And the rate of decline has almost tripled in the past decade."
Slate Magazine, in an article about the Harry Potter series

I have a bulging sack of novels by the door waiting to go back when the library opens in October. I've read them all. I can't imagine a life without books. When I was following Julia Cameron's recommendations for recharging creativity, the hardest task was to go a week without reading. Not even the blather on the side of a cereal box. I think I fizzled after two days.

I've been spoiled by having free books since I've been here in Mexico. Everywhere we've been there are book exchanges, and here in San Carlos we have not only the library, open every Friday except during summer, but two exchanges at the marina. We can buy the Arizona Republic newspaper, too.

The Spanish version of the new Harry Potter will cost $60 here in Mexico

In contrast, Mexicans have to pay dearly for books. The latest Harry Potter, for instance, is going for $60 down here, according to Jeremy Schwartz's blog, "Uncovering Mexico." Most of the schools have libraries, I was assured by Lolita, a former English teacher, but once out of school, the average Mexican doesn't have a lot of exposure to books, especially leisure reading material. Too bad, because the schools apparently do a good job of getting kids to read: Mexico reports a literacy rate of 91%. It's a young country, with average age of 25.6 years for men and 26.6 years for women.

Ley, the Guaymas supermarket, carries a fairly large selection of books, usually softcover and often religious. I haven't seen books for sale anywhere else. No library, despite a population of more than 134,000. And meanwhile, in the States books go begging.

Heavy clouds, fresh breezes and a couple of rainstorms have made the last couple of days very comfortable. We didn't even turn on the AC until we went to bed last night. I take the puppies out and sit reading and luxuriating in the coolness. Life is still good.

LATE-BREAKING NEWS: I stand corrected about the lack of books in Guaymas. My fellow blogger Brenda, who lives there and is better-informed, has this to say:

Your comment about no library is incorrect.
Yes, there is a library in Guaymas, Roy and I went to it once looking for a map of Guaymas before we bought one. There were no adults in the library (other than the staff) when we were there; but it was during the day. There were lots of school children working dilgently at things and asking for assistance from the library staff, it was a busy place. Lots of tables and chairs, busy spot when we were there.
There are also 2 book stores that I know of in Guaymas and was told about a third one that I haven't looked for yet. One is on Serdan between 18th and 19th streets (mas o menos) and the other is a second hand book shop, south of Serdan on 20th street I believe. I have shopped in both of them at various times.

THRILLS AND SECRETS

It's official: the monsoons have begun. A chubasco blew in last night, with spectacular lightning and thunder, boisterous winds and a short but vigorous rainstorm. It brings mud, power outages and mosquitoes, but I'm thrilled by the storms, the same kind of thrill I get on a good roller coaster. I couldn't help wishing I had a faster camera to get some lightning shots. But I wouldn't want to be out on a mooring, like the folks on "Desperado" and "Arigato Jack." There's already been one lightning strike to a sailboat mast in the anchorage this season, and the monsoons are only beginning.

I'm linking to yet another blogger in San Miguel Allende, whose comments I've been enjoying. Babs is also from Texas and goes up twice a year to see grandkids and fulfill her "Houston shopping list" of items not available in SMA. She has 34 years experience getting around in Mexico for her art export and design business and I was tickled to learn she still speaks Spanish only in the present tense. She's apparently using a 35mm camera and scans her photos, which sounds like an ordeal in this digital age, but I'm envious of her extensive travels and her knowledge of indigenous art. Her latest post mentions a "secret" she can't reveal yet, but it entails good news. Watch for further developments.

One item she mentioned recently was about finding a car insurance agent in Laredo who would give her a short-term U.S. policy--in her case, three months, and the whole transaction took place on the Internet. Insuring a car when you're only driving it in the States for a short time has turned out to be a real challenge for us. We ended up buying six-month policies for all three vehicles, and then canceling those for the VW and the pickup after we got them down here. I think insurance companies are missing a bet by not offering policies for two-week trips, for instance. With all the gringos living in Mexico who make only periodic runs into the states, I'd think they'd do a booming business.

LATE BREAKING NEWS: Our friend from "In The Now" just dropped by, looking depressed, and told us lightning struck his boat last night, burning out all his electronics. He's been living on a mooring for three years, but right now he'd walk away from it if he could. Very discouraged.

WERE IT A WOLF OR WHAT?

When the moon is full, the Capt goes through some changes...
http://cochrans.com/blogpix/mx_sailor2.mov

HE SAILS, I SING

Today the Capt went for a quick sail that lasted all day on "Desperado," another Morgan just bought by a couple from Spokane. They're trying to tune their rigging and learn to sail this particular kind of boat and the Capt believes he can help. They have never even motored this boat, never hoisted the sails before. So today was a big day for them.

But before he boarded "Desperado" the Capt was down at the marina helping our friend from "Inclination" unload his boat. The Capt is a busy man. Doesn't have time to read his copy of "Meditations for Men Who Do Too Much."

"Inclination" just crossed the Sea last night and arrived bright and early. He had to motor the whole way, with no wind to power his sails.

Meanwhile I've been investigating a karaoke website called singshot. It's free, and the backup music and recording device is supplied by the website, so all you have to do is provide the mic and sing. Alas, no songs in Spanish.

And carrying puppies outside to do their business. And talking to customers on the phone. And making a taco salad.

Yesterday Lolita and I learned "El Condor Pasa," the song made famous in English by Simon & Garfunkel in the 70s. We did the Spanish version, and I'm hoping to work up an alto part for it.

THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT

Our friend the Captain of 'Arigato! Jack" requests photos of the new puppies, so the Capt and I got busy and took dozens, but only a few are in focus. These little guys move very fast and even with a speed lens they come out looking like mounds of mashed potatoes.

Their third day here, they're already showing a preference for doing their business outside. I've watched them closely and scooped them up after every nap (at least 15 naps a day), carried them outside and placed them on the ground. Then, mission accomplished, they follow me back indoors. In fact, if they have unfinished business, they refuse to come back in until it's done. They already respond when I call them. Last night they stayed in the bathroom without complaining, a BIG improvement, and left the bathroom floor pristine. Favorite toys so far are a piece of rope, my flipflops and our toes. Favorite activity is stalking each other and frenzied wrestling with ferocious growls and squeals of pain.

We've tentatively named the male Chuy (pronounced "chewy") a Mexican nickname for Jesús. Undecided on the female's name, I'm calling her Chica (young girl) until I come up with something I like better. You can only tell them apart if you notice the white spot on Chica's head.

And (drumroll) here they are.
Doing their baby seal impression
Chuy demonstrates how he got his name
Chica's on the left, Chuy on the right

RAINING CATS & DOGS

Sixty five years old today, and I’ve been like a 13-year-old all day.

Here's a blow-by-blow report. First a cappuccino with the captain, part of our morning ritual, and breakfast delivery to the feral feline family out back (Zorra is now nudging me for head-scratches and rubbing against me). Then a walk on the beach with my new neighbor, the two-plus miles there and back flying by because we had so much to talk about.

Then, tianguis at Guaymas! We haven’t been to tianguis (a weekly Mexican swap meet) in a few months and though it was a sultry hot morning, a breeze was coming off the bay whenever I stopped to acknowledge it. The Capt bought tools, in particular a router he was excited about. I found a bag of little golden mangoes, picked from the seller’s backyard tree, very hard to find in summer. The veggies looked better than anything I’d find in the supermarket. We found an old seabag with a Marine's name stenciled on it, which will come in handy on the boat, and a ceiling fan to install over the dining table.

On the way home we spotted the Puppy Man standing in his usual shady spot under the overpass, a puppy in each upraised hand. I’ve been trying to get a photo of him for a year, and since the Capt was feeling indulgent, we stopped, walked back to meet him and I got his photo. But that wasn’t all I got…
Andres the Puppy Man

“Que tipo de cachurros?” the Capt asked, and the Puppy Man, aka Andres, asserted they were Maltese. (Maybe part Maltese, but I suspect part Cocker, too.) They're white, six weeks old, brother and sister. The Capt was determined we were going to take one home. But I couldn’t decide whether I wanted a boy or a girl, and I didn’t want to split them up. So, you guessed it. We now have two puppies.

My sister, calling from Oklahoma to wish me happy birthday, pointed out that by buying these dogs we were encouraging a puppy mill to stay in operation. Guilty as charged. This was a completely crazy and impulsive thing to do. Wheee!!

A couple of hours after settling in our as-yet-unnamed new family at home, I was back in Guaymas with Lolita, working on Spanish. At last I’ve started learning past tense, which is going to come in very handy whenever I want to discuss something that’s already happened. Using a verb in future tense isn’t so hard, you can always say “Voy a comprar,” for example, for “I’m going to buy...” But past tense is going to take some work. It's handy that a lot of verbs are the same in present and past tense, as long as you're speaking in third person plural. So I could talk like a nurse, "How did we do with the bedpan this morning?" and skip a lot of effort.

The best part of our session was harmonizing on a couple of songs in Spanish ... they’re starting to sound (dare I say it?) pretty good, if I can judge by the endorphin rush I experienced a couple of times. I brought Lolita a songbook of romantic boleros I ordered on the Internet and she was delighted to find that she knows many of the songs in it. We’ll have to add them to our repertoire.

At home the Capt was busy at work on a steak dinner and a lemon meringue pie was cooling in the fridge. And then he did the dishes, always a treat. Later we watched “Freeway” with Keifer Sutherland and Reese Witherspoon, which surprised us by being better than expected, if somewhat violent. Hint: it’s based on Little Red Riding Hood.

And then there was thunder and lightning, and a couple of vigorous downpours, which we've all been looking forward to. I stood outside in the cool rain and got thoroughly soaked, which I haven't done since I was about eight. As the captain on "Arigato! Jack" said, it was "raining cats and dogs."

The pups are already starting to follow us around when they're not sleeping or gnawing on each other. We’ll have to find a crate for them, and real chew toys, get them innoculated, get them color-coded collars so we can tell them apart, think up names, etc. Sophie is bewildered, but we keep reassuring her she’s still Numero Uno.

And I feel pampered and pleased, albeit a little bewildered myself. Tomorrow I’ll wake up and say, “I dreamed we adopted a couple of puppies, isn’t that crazy?” And then we’ll open the bathroom door, and there they’ll be. Yikes!

S**T HAPPENS! AND SO DO MIRACLES

For the first time since early May, a trip across the border was in order. We had a bin full of business mail to go out (which could take a month via Mexican mail), shipments to pick up, and a shopping list we'd been compiling for months. For these occasional journeys we store a disabled but comfy old Rollalong at a shabby but friendly RV park south of Tucson.

It's a four-hour drive, in addition to an hour at the border as heightened security on the US side backs up traffic for miles. This time we brought our novels and peacefully read while we waited in line. We hear the wait can be as much as three to six hours, so we got off easy this time. It was a Friday, and we'd been warned the delay would be grueling.

At last, tired, hot and hungry, we pulled up to the RV park office to sign in and the Capt glanced over at the Rollalong, about 125 feet away.

"Hey," he said, "Looks like the rig next to us burned down!" I saw a blackened hulk beside our pied-a-terre and gasped.

The RV next door had a cheery "On The Road Again" license plate

But it wasn't just the rig next to us that burned. The managers told us the fire started in a workshop, spread into the desert and wiped out four RVs before it was contained. Ours was only spared because the huge land yacht that had been squeezed in three feet from us had gone, leaving a space that acted as a firebreak.
Mostly unrecognizable rubble was all that was left of the other three RVs. Ours stands at far right, undamaged.

At least three miracles saved our little stateside refuge. The fire truck arrived before the flames spread to it. The RVs that burned no doubt had large gas and propane tanks, but they must have been low or empty, no tanks exploded. And the folks who own the land yacht that had been jammed in next to us decided to take it on vacation, leaving that crucial twelve-foot gap.

LATEST DISCOVERY: "Uncovering Mexico," a very readable blog by Jeremy Schwartz, a new Mexico City correspondent for Cox Newspapers. You can blame/credit the Austin Statesman, which publishes his column, for the advertising that crowds a third of his blogspace. But ignore that, and you'll find some very interesting info.

AJ GETS WET

"Arigato Jack" is looking spiffy in the workyard, with fresh paint on the hull

There were smiles all around today as "Arigato! Jack" finally left the hot, dusty drydock workyard, paraded proudly up the street to the marina, and majestically slid into the water to the applause of a cluster of admirers. AJ is a ferrocement ketch, purchased here in San Carlos and sailed two years ago in the Sea of Cortez and then left in drydock while her owner traveled and taught English in Japan. Four months of effort have gone into making the boat seaworthy again, and her name was changed from "Gray Dawn" to "Arigato! Jack" as a Japanese thank-you to the captain's grandfather. AJ's captain (a fellow blogger) was so excited she was jumping up and down, but she and her crew of one handled the launching like experts. The engine won't start because the batteries are shot and need replacing, but there was a panga to tow her out to its mooring, smack in the middle of the anchorage. We followed along behind and got photos and video of AJ's big moment. The Capt later edited the video we shot and came up with this spine-tingling movie. Spielberg, watch your back!
AJ sets off on the road to the marina
Arriving at the launching ramp
Catching a ride with a panga, out to the anchorage
Moored at last!

HEY, I GOT RAISINS, ALL YOU WANT

"He told me...that, as a martyr, he would have been granted 72 virgins. This didn't seem quite the moment to point out that there is a lively, ongoing debate among scholars of Islam as to whether the 72 promised virgins might, in fact, only be 72 raisins."
-- The New Republic's Peter Bergen, on an interview with a would-be suicide bomber